Truth In Aging

* a salt of edetic acid.

Functions:

Cosmetic manufacturers frequently use this ingredient for a variety purposes. It primarily works as a preservative, chelator and stabilizer, but has also been shown to enhance the foaming and cleaning capabilities of a cosmetic solution. As a metal chelator, it counteracts the adverse effects of hard water by binding with heavy metal ions contained in tap water, which in turn prevents the metals from being depositied onto the skin, hair and scalp. This makes it a particularly useful ingredient for rinse-off products that inherently require water to come into contact with the skin. Essentially, this ingredient deactivates the metal ions through bonding with them, which inturn prevents cosmetic products from deteriorating, maintains its clarity and prevents it from smelling rancid. You can find this ingredient in virtually every personal care product including facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, shampoo/conditioner, hair dye, body wash and eye cream.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

The FDA permits this ingredient to be used as a food preservative, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed it as safe to use in OTC personal care products. Clinical tests have shown that standard concentrations of the ingredient do not irritate, sensitize or penetrate the skin. Though clinical data indicates that disodium EDTA is not well absorbed by the skin, it has been shown to enhance the dermal penetration of other ingredients contained in a product. Thus, cosmetic formulators must excersise caution when combining it with other ingredients potentially harmful if absorbed by the skin.

Furthermore, though research shows this ingredient to be generally non-carcinogenic and non-toxic, some studies suggest that disodium EDTA is weakly mutagenic (probably due to the fact that it binds with metals required for healthy cell division.) Similarily, large oral doses have lead to reproductive and developmental effects, once again, likely due to the fact that the ingredient binds with and deactivates metail ions that are required for normal reproduction and development.

It must be noted, howevever, that significantly larger than normal doses of the ingredient (usually oral and not topically applied) were administered whenever any slightly mutagenic or toxic activity was observed. Both the CIR Expert Panel and the EU Cosmetics Directive assert that the typical concentration of Disodium EDTA contained in a cosmetic product is too low to cause any significant harm to the body, and have determined it as safe to use in personal care products.

Recommended Products w/ disodium EDTA:

Phenoxyethanol is the new darling of the chemical industry and it is increasingly turning up in cosmetics as a preservative as an alternative to parabens. It only recently came to public attention in the US when the FDA issued a warning about its use in a cream, called Mommy Bliss, for nursing mothers. The FDA warned that phenoxyethanol can cause shut down of the central nervous system, vomiting and contact dermatitis.

So what is phenoxyethano, is it is really safer than parabens or should we try to avoid it?

Phenoxyethanol is a glycol ether (not ‘ester’ as I incorrectly wrote in the first version of this post). Glycols are a series of chemicals that find their way into all sorts of things: paint, lacquer, jet fuel….. Phenoxyethanol is used as an anti-bacterial in cosmetics as well as a stabilizer in perfume.

The product’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) says that it phenoxyethanol is harmful if swallowed, inhaled or absorbed through the skin and that it can cause reproductive damage. The MSDS refers to 100% concentrations, so is it safe at lower doses? In cosmetics the concentrations are typically 0.5% to 1%.

There are several animal studies that demonstrate that it is toxic – with effects on the brain and the nervous system – at moderate concentrations. In Japan, there is a concentration limit for its use in cosmetics. In Europe, the European Union classifies it as an irritant and there are various studies (on rabbit skin, for example) that demonstrate reactions at low doses. The EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) data sheets show chromosomal changes and genetic mutation effects in
testing as well as testicular atrophy and interference with
reproductivity in mice.

I also came across a report written by a medical professional who contracted allergies after coming into contact with phenoxyethanol in a detergent used for cleaning lab equipment. It seems he wasn’t a fluke. There are over 3,000 known allergans and they were studied, along with the data from 9,948 patients, by a research team in Germany. Phenoxyethanol was in the top 10.

Phenoxyethanol breaks down to phenol and acetaldehyde, acetaldehyde converts to acetate. Phenol can disable the immune system’s primary response mechanism. Given that, it is at best ironic, that phenoxyethanol is used as an anti-bacterial in vaccines. Acetaldehyde occurs during the breakdown of ethanol, (alchohol and
2-phenoxyETHANOL), it is a suspected carcinogen. Inhalation studies have shown irritation of the eyes, skin, and respiratory tract.

I feel that given the wealth of evidence, I’d rather give it a miss even at concentrations of 1% or lower. That, however, is easier said than done. Phenoxyethanol is becoming ubiquitous. A random survey (that didn’t even require me to get up from by desk) of six products lying around waiting for us to review, revealed that three of them contain phenoxyethanol. I’ve even seen it in baby lotion.

Five Best products without phenoxyethanol

The FDA warning on phenoxyethanol

Natural alternatives to phenoxyethanol

Parabens and other preservatives

Estrogen in cosmetics and links to cancer

What is it: Estrogen in my face cream

Sodium benzoate isn’t much fun either

A doctor warns us against parabens, aluminum and phthalates in a new book called Anticancer

Does BHT cause cancer?