Ingredients of CeraVe cream and
Kiss My Face (KMF)
1.
water
2.
glycerin
(may be derived synthetically from either vegetable or animal sources)
3.
sodium
borate (KMF)
4.
Olea
europaea (olive oil)
5.
potassium
phosphate
6.
dipotasium phosphate
Vegetable Glycerin (vegetable
glycerol) (KMF)
植物甘油脂
柔軟劑、乳化劑
Cetearyl Alcohol
(Cetyl Stearyl Alcohol, Cetostearyl
Alcohol)
棕櫚醇,
鯨蠟硬脂醇
Cas No:8005-44-5;
67762-27-0
|
致粉刺
|
刺激性
|
來源
|
|
2
|
1
|
Sage Advice
|
|
2
|
2
|
DERMAdoctor
|
|
4
|
3
|
張麗卿老師
|
界面活性劑、乳化劑、親水
性稠化劑,來自於棕櫚、椰子樹之脂肪醇,常使用於面霜、洗髮乳等產品[1]
由於其刺激性之考量,不宜
經常使用於臉部肌膚接觸性產品中,拒絕指數為
3/5(越
高越不好),
面皰發生性為 4/5(越
高越不好)[2]。Vegetable
glycerin is also used in place of alcohol to extract
botanicals. The disadvantage is that the resulting products have a much shorter
shelf life.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride slows
the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. It is
also used to alter the thickness of liquid products.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an oily liquid made from coconut
oil. In cosmetics and personal care products, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is used
in the formulation of lipstick, eye makeup, foundations, blushers, perfumes, moisturizers,
suntan and sunscreen products and many other products.
辛酸/癸
酸三酸甘油酯清晰至淡黃色,
是高清爽度無味油脂,
屬棕櫚油或椰子油的衍生物.
它是使用熱分餾方法提取.
是一種潤滑劑和擴散劑,
亦可作為精油的稀釋劑.
由於它和人體皮膚有相容的特徵,
所以也適合油性皮膚使用,
並且不會堵塞毛孔.
亦很適合用作修護無光澤和乾性的髮質.
屬親油性.
它是很好的媒介,
能使油脂易於溶解.
可與任何油脂類混合.
它不能溶解在水中,
但可溶解在溫暖的酒精裡.
它有著不油膩質感,
加入乳霜或乳液中可改進其延伸性,
有潤滑和使肌膚柔軟的效果.
並有過濾紫外光的功能.
辛酸/癸
酸三酸甘油酯保存性是穩定的,
開封後可儲
存6個
月以上,
當然亦需視
乎是否有適當的儲存條件,
例如低溫儲
存和避免直接接觸陽光等.
使用禁忌:
避免直接將
大量椰子油塗抹於皮膚上,
這可能會導
致過敏現象.
可直接加入
於配方中,
通常使用份
量約5-50%.
Sodium
borate (KMF)
The safety of Sodium Borate and
Boric Acid has been assessed by the
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated
the scientific data and concluded that Sodium Borate and Boric Acid, in concentrations
less than or equal to 5%, are safe as cosmetic ingredients. The CIR Expert Panel
also cautioned that cosmetics and personal care products containing free Sodium
Borate or Boric Acid at 5% should not be used on infant skin or injured skin. In
2003, as part of the scheduled re-evaluation of ingredients, the CIR Expert Panel
considered available new data on Sodium Borate and Boric Acid and reaffirmed the
above conclusion.
Sodium Borate and Boric Acid prevent
or retard bacterial growth, and thus protect cosmetics and personal care products
from spoilage. They are also used to control
pH and to minimize the change in the
pH of a solution when an acid or a base is added. Sodium Borate and Boric Acid
also help to keep an
emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components. They are also used
to alter the thickness of liquid cosmetics and personal care products. 可溶於水,易溶於沸水或甘油中。
Potassium phosphate
works to ease
the irritation of dry skin. It acidifies the skin and allows the moisturizers to
easily penetrate the skin.
Xanthan gum as another moisturizer.
In addition to providing moisture, xanthan gum keeps the oils and water-based substances
from separating during its shelf life. Xantham Gum
Use Rate: 0.1 - 2%
(Xanthum Gum, Xanthen Gum, Xanthan
Gum, Zanthan Gum, Xanthan)
黃原膠,
三仙膠,
山羊膠
增稠劑,植物性膠質多醣體,常用於食品添加,只需少量的黃原膠,即可產生很大的稠化效果,在食品中通常僅需添加
0.5% 甚至
0.05%,相較於其他的
膠體,黃原膠在各種溫度與
pH
值下穩定範圍更大,適合作為精油類乳液之
基質。
神经酰胺 (Ceramides):
新型保湿剂
,它的结构成与皮肤角质层的物质结构相近,能很快渗透进皮肤和角质层和水结合,形成一种网状结构锁住水分。
Read more:
http://www.livestrong.com/article/145887-ingredients-in-cerave-moisturizing-cream/#ixzz1YhdHSxqu
Thickening agents (e.g. stearic
acid, cetyl alcohol, etc.).
Behentrimonium methosulfate, cetearyl
alcohol.
Properties: Skin care products: gives superior cationic emulsions with soft powdery
feel, thickening & stabilizing effects, able to emulsify silicone up to 50%. Hair
care products: excellent conditioning & detangling effects, superior wet combing,
very gentle for leave-on products.
Use: Warm to melt before use, typical concentration 1-10%.
Applications: Moisturizing creams & lotions, silicone emulsions, antiperspirants
& deodorants, various hair care products (conditioners, detanglers, hair dyes, hair
relaxers, leave-on treatments, ethnic hair care products).
Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol,
Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol are white, waxy solids. Isostearyl Alcohol
is a clear liquid. Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol are the two major components
of Cetearyl Alcohol. These ingredients are all fatty alcohols and that are widely
used in cosmetics and personal care products, especially in skin lotions and creams.
Cetyl alcohol is now produced from
petroleum, palm and coconut oil. It is used in the cosmetic industry as a
opacifier in
shampoos, or as an
emollient,
emulsifier or
thickening agent in the manufacture of skin creams and lotions.
========================================================
The safety of Cetearyl Alcohol,
Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearyl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol and Behenyl Alcohol has been
assessed by the
Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated
the scientific data and concluded that these fatty alcohols were safe for use as
cosmetic ingredients.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol used as an
emulsion stabilizer and opacifier, adding body and viscosity to creams and
lotions, and improving texture and feel with its characteristic velvety texture.
It imparts emollient properties to formulations due to its absorption and
retention in the epidermis where it lubricates and softens the skin. Useful in
creams, lotions, and scrubs; it can also be used to increase the melt point and
improve the texture of whipped butters and lotion bars.
Our Cetyl Alcohol is derived from vegetable oils, not petroleum.
Recommended Use Rate: 1 - 30%
Appearance: White flakes or beadlet (prill)
===========================================
Ceramide
1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water
loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin.
Huang HC,
Chang TM.
Source
Department of Medical Laboratory Science and Biotechnology, China
Medical University, Taichung, Taiwan.
Abstract
BACKGROUND:
Stratum corneum intercellular lipids, such as ceramides, play
an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding
capacity. Aim To evaluate the potential water retention capacity of control emulsion
and three oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions containing ceramide 1, ceramide 3, or both.
METHODS:
Fifteen healthy Asian women (age, 20-30 years) with healthy skin,
pretreated with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), applied the tested emulsions twice
daily over a period of 28 days. Skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
values were measured on the indicated days with a Corneometer(R)825 and a TEWAMETER
TM210, respectively.
RESULTS:
The maximum increase in skin humidity was reached after 4 weeks,
with values of 21.9 +/- 1.8% and 8.9 +/- 0.9% for emulsion C and control emulsion,
respectively. The maximum decrease in TEWL was also reached after 4 weeks, with
values of 36.7 +/- 4.7% and 5.1 +/- 0.8% for the same emulsions.
CONCLUSIONS:
It can be concluded that all the tested ceramide-containing emulsions
improved skin barrier function when compared with untreated skin. There was some
indication that ceramides 1 and 3 contained in emulsion C might exert a beneficial
synergistic effect on skin biochemical properties, such as skin hydration and TEWL,
and play a key role in the protection mechanism against SLS irritation.
PMID:
18717861
[PubMed
- indexed for MEDLINE]
Shea butter
he fat of the nut of the African
Shea tree (Vitellaria paradoxa) is the source of Shea butter. The traditional use
of the butter is to reduce the appearance of fine lines, scars and stretch marks,
and to ease a variety of skin irritations, such as psoriasis, eczema and sunburn.
Makers of cosmetics also mix this natural substance with other botanical ingredients.
Shea butter is ideal for the topical application of cosmetic and medicinal formulas,
because it melts on contact and is readily absorbed into the skin, without leaving
a greasy residue.
Shea butter extract is a complex fat that contains, besides
many
nonsaponifiable components (substances that cannot be fully converted into
soap by treatment with
alkali), the following fatty acids:oleic
acid (40-60%),
stearic acid (20-50%),
linoleic acid (3-11%),
palmitic acid (2-9%),
linolenic acid(<1%) and
arachidic acid(<1%).[4]
Shea butter melts at body temperature and absorbs rapidly
into the skin without leaving a greasy feeling[citation
needed].


Shea butter soap.
Shea butter is mainly used in
cosmetics, such as
lip gloss
moisturizer
creams and
emulsions, and
hair conditioners for dry and brittle hair. It is also used by
soap makers, typically in small amounts (5-7% of the oils in the recipe), because
of its property of leaving a small amount of oil in the soap.
In Africa, shea butter is used for cooking oil, as a waterproofing
wax, for hairdressing, for candle-making, and also as an ingredient in medicinal
ointments. It is also used by makers of traditional African
percussion instruments to increase the durability of wood (such as carved
djembe shells), dried calabash gourds, and leather tuning straps.
[edit]
Medicinal
Shea butter is used as a base for medicinal
ointments. Some of the isolated chemical constituents are reported to have
anti-inflammatory,
emollient and
humectant properties.[5]
Shea butter has been used as a
sunblocking lotion and has a limited capacity to absorb
ultraviolet radiation.
[3]
In Ghana, shea butter, locally known as nkuto (Akan)
or nku (Ga)
is used as lotion to protect the skin during the dry
Harmattan season.
In Nigeria shea butter is used for the management of
sinusitis and relief of
nasal congestion.[6]
It is also massaged into joints and other parts of the body where pain is experienced.
[edit]
Classification
Some companies have suggested a classification system for shea
butter separating it into five grades: A (raw or unrefined, extracted using water),
B (refined), C (highly refined and extracted with solvents such as
hexane), D (lowest uncontaminated grade), E (with contaminants). Commercial
grades are A, B, C. The color of raw (grade A) butter ranges from cream (like whipped
butter) to grayish yellow, and it has a nutty aroma which is removed in the
other grades. Grade C is pure white[citation
needed] While the level of vitamin content can be affected by refining,
up to 95% of vitamin content can remain in refined grades (i.e. grade C) of shea
butter while reducing contamination levels to non-detectable levels.
[edit]
See also
Beeswax
Beeswax is a hydrating ingredient that
increases skins essential moisture. Helps to seal and protect the skin. Functions
as a natural thickener and emulsifier.
|
Ingredients listed in Kiss My Face
(on bottle)
Agua
tearic acid
Isopropyl palminateXXXXXXX
Glycerin -
3 to 8%.
Cetyl alcohol--(Thickening agents) Recommended
Use Rate: 1 - 30%
Sodium
borate
Aloe barbadans (leaf jus de feuille)
Olea Europaea (olive fruit oil,
fuille de olive fruit )
Avena sativa (oat protein)
Butyrose permanpark (shea butter)
Sunflower seed oil
Lavender extract
Matricaria flower extract
Fenel seed extract
Elder flower extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract
Orange flower extract
Salvia officinalis leaf extract
(sage)
Yarrow extract
Sweet almond oil
Xanthan gum
Use Rate: 0.1 - 2%
Vitamin A palmitate
Vitamin A acetate
Vitamin E
acetate - use rate 0.04- 0.5%.
Allantoin
Lecithin 1-2%
Cetyl esters
Polysorbate 80
Squalane
Titanium
dioxide
Trisodium EDTA
1,2 Hexanediol
caprylyl glycol---
use rate 0.5 - 1.5%
XXXXXXX
phenoxyethanol
use rate 0.75-1.50%
Sorbic acid
up to 0.2%.
|
Lotion proportion
*600 g *有了
Water: 60-80%
80 g*有了
Glycerin -
3 to 10%., 1 lb, $3.97
70 g*有賣 3-5%
for lotions and 5-10% for creams.
Vegetable base emulsifying wax is preferred.
50 g*有了
Stearic acid 3 ~
5% ,
1 lb -
$2.97
30 g*有了 Oils 10 ~ 30%
85 g*有了
Shea butter 8.5% ,1 lb
Virgin UnRefined - $6.95
10 g*有了
Citric Acid
0.25% to 0.5% or up to 1%.
:
1 lb - $4.95
50 g*有了
Borax and Boric Acid, less than or equal
to 5%,
5 g*有了
Vitamin E acetate - use rate 0.04- 0.5%.
, 1 oz, $9.97
20 g*有了
Xanthan Gum, 0.1 - 2% , 1
lb, $14.95
5 g
*有了
potassium sorbate 0.1% - 0.5%
25 g *
Sodium lactate
0.5%- 2.5%; up to 5%,
for a product where the
sun doesn't matter - e.g for a night time foot cream.
Sorbic acid (insoluble
in water) up to 0.2%.,
caprylyl glycol---
0.5 - 1.5%
XXXXXXX
phenoxyethanol
0.75-1.50% XXXXXXX
Germaben II
0.3% to 1%.(DO NOT
USE, TO MUCH RESTRICTION)
Note About
Germaben II
: Never add ammonia, borax, baking
soda or other alkaline products to lotions containing Germaben II and the
amount of oil used shouldn’t be more than 25%.
Suppliers:
http://www.bulkapothecary.com/search.php?search_query=VITAMIN+E
vitamin E, 1 oz, $9.97 Glycerin,
1 lb, $3.97 Xanthan gum, 1 lb,
$14.95 Citric acid:
1 lb - $4.95
Stearic acid, 1 lb - $2.97
Shea butter,1 lb Virgin
UnRefined - $6.95
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/potassium-sorbate.html
potassium sorbate, 4 oz $2.95
Borax: 可溶於水,易溶於沸水或甘油中。
Sodium lactate: I use sodium lactate at 2.5% or
lower in my products because at 3% it can make you sun sensitive, so I'd
recommend it at 0.5% to 2.5%. If you're using it in a product where the sun
doesn't matter - for instance, for a night time foot cream - you can go as high
as 5%.
|
- Kiss My Face Corp, 144 Main St, Gardiner
NY 12525.
Kiss My Face
Inactive ingredients
Aqua,
Aloe
Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice,
Helianthus
Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil,
Acrylates
Copolymer, XXXXXXX
Lecithin,
Glycerin,
(Typical use rate
3 to 8%.)
Xanthan Gum, (Typical Use Rate: 0.1 - 2% )
Glycine
Soja (Soybean) Oil,
Cocamidopropyl
Betaine, XXXXXXX
Cocos
Nucifera (Coconut) Oil,
Avena Sativa (Oat) Protein,
XXXXXXX
Butyrospermum
Parkii (Shea) Butter,
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract,
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract,
Tocopheryl
Acetate (Vitamin E),
Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil,
Retinyl
Palmitate (Vitamin A),
Avena Sativa (Oat) Betaglucan,
XXXXXXX
Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil,
Phenoxyethanol, use recommended level 0.75-1.50%
Ethylhexylglycerin,
up to 20%.
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
====================================
http://www.sbwave.com/lotion/general.html
- Oil: Use 10 to 25%
- Glycerin: Use 3 to 8%.
- Emulsifying Wax: Use 3 to 7%.
- Stearic Acid: Use 3 to 5%.
- Citric Acid: Use 0.25% to 0.5% or up to 1%.
- Germaben II: Use 0.3% to 1.0%.
- Water: Use 60 to 80%. Distilled water is preferred.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Lotion proportion
Emulsifying wax 3 to 7% .
Vegetable base emulsifying wax is preferred.
Stearic acid 3 to 5%
Oils 10 to 30%
Germaben II 0.3%
to 1%.
Shea butter 8.5%
Citric Acid
0.25% to 0.5% or up to 1%.
Borate and Boric Acid, less than or equal to
5%,
Xanthan Gum, (Typical Use Rate: 0.1 - 2% )
Note About
Germaben II
: Never add ammonia, borax, baking soda
or other alkaline products to lotions containing Germaben II and the amount of
oil used shouldn’t be more than 25%.
====================================
Suppliers:
http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/product.asp?product_id=WAXBEES
http://www.soapgoods.com/Germaben-II-p-705.html
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Antioxidants-c6/
http://www.bulkapothecary.com/raw-ingredients/preservatives/germaben-ii/
===================================================
Oat sensitization in Atopic dermatitis children seen for allergy
testing is higher than expected. It may be the result of repeated applications of
cosmetics with oats on a predisposed impaired epidermal barrier. We suggest avoiding
topical-containing oat proteins in infants with AD.
Comment in
acrylates copolymer
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Not to be ingested or swallowed. Animal tests have also shown
it to be harmful if come into contact with the skin and/or eyes. The FDA permits
it to be used as an indirect food additive. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)
Expert panel reviewed the data surroudning the safety of this ingredient and dermined
it as safe to use in OTC personal care products. However, it must be noted that
while no sensitization from using acrylates copolymer
was observed, this ingredient has been known to cause irritations in some.
Acrylates Copolymer
Final Report
on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
Abstract
Ingredients in the Acrylates Copolymer group all contain the
monomers acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or one of their salts or esters. These
ingredients are considered similar in that they are uniformly produced in chemical
reactions that leave very little residual monomer. Although residual acrylic acid
may be as high as 1500 ppm, typical levels are 10 to 1000 ppm. There is sufficient
odor if residual monomers are present to cause producers to keep levels as low as
possible. These ingredients function in cosmetics as binders, film formers, hair
fixatives, suspending agents, viscosity-increasing agents, and emulsion stabilizers.
Concentrations may be as high as 25% if used as a binder, film former, or fixative;
or as low as 0.5% if used as a viscosity-increasing agent, suspending agent, or
emulsion stabilizer. These very large polymers exhibit little toxicity. In rabbits
and guinea pigs, Acrylates Copolymer did produce irritation, but no evidence of
sensitization was found. The principle concern regarding the use of these polymer
ingredients is the presence of toxic residual monomers. In particular, although
2-ethylhexyl acrylate was not genotoxic, it was carcinogenic when applied at a concentration
of 21% to the skin of C3H mice. Lower concentrations (2.5%) and stop-dose studies
at high concentrations (43%) were not carcinogenic. 2-Ethylhexyl acrylate was not
carcinogenic in studies using NMRI mice. Whether an increase in carcinogenesis was
seen or not, there was evidence of severe dermal irritation in these 2-ethylhexyl
acrylate studies. Another concern regarding residual monomers was inhalation toxicity.
Although the acrylic acid monomer is a nasal irritant, exposure to the monomer from
use of these polymers in cosmetic formulations would always be less than the established
occupational exposure limits for nasal irritation. Although there appears to be
a huge variation in the mix of monomers used in the synthesis of these polymers,
they are similar in that the polymers, except for dermal irritation, are not significantly
toxic, and residual monomer levels are kept as low as possible. Although the monomers
may be toxic, the levels that would be found in cosmetic formulations are not considered
to present a safety risk. Accordingly, these Acrylate Copolymers are considered
safe for use in cosmetic formulations when formulated to avoid irritation.
titanium dioxide
Sunscreen and UV absorber
In
cosmetic and
skin care products, titanium dioxide is used as a pigment, sunscreen and a
thickener. It is also used as a
tattoo pigment and in
styptic pencils. Titanium dioxide is produced in varying particle sizes, oil
and water dispersible, and with varying coatings for the cosmetic industry. This
pigment is used extensively in plastics and other applications for its UV resistant
properties where it acts as a UV absorber, efficiently transforming destructive
UV light energy into heat.
Titanium dioxide is found in almost every
sunscreen with a physical blocker because of its high refractive index, its
strong UV light absorbing capabilities and its resistance to discolouration under
ultraviolet light. This advantage enhances its stability and ability to protect
the skin from ultraviolet light. Nano-scaled titanium dioxide particles are primarily
used in sun screen lotion because they scatter visible light less than titanium
dioxide pigments while still providing UV protection.[24]
Sunscreens designed for infants or people with
sensitive skin are often based on titanium dioxide and/or
zinc oxide, as these mineral UV blockers are believed to cause less skin irritation
than other UV absorbing chemicals. The titanium dioxide particles used in sunscreens
have to be coated with
silica or
alumina, because titanium dioxide creates
radicals in the
photocatalytic reaction. These radicals are
carcinogenic, and could damage the skin.
Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB)
CAPB has been claimed to cause allergic reactions in some
users,[3][4][5]
but a controlled pilot study has found that these cases may represent irritant reactions
rather than true allergic reactions.[6]
Furthermore, results of human studies have shown that CAPB has a low sensitizing
potential if impurities with
amidoamine (AA) and
dimethylaminopropylamine (DMAPA) are low and tightly controlled.[7][8]
Other studies have concluded that most apparent allergic reactions to CAPB are more
likely due to amidoamine.[1][9]
Cocamidopropyl betaine was voted 2004
Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society.[10]
=======================================================
=======================================================
Germaben II
http://www.soapgoods.com/Germaben-II-p-705.html
Recipe/Process:
Joyfully Westra Thick Cream
Ingredients:
- 36 grams of Sweet Almond Oil
- 36 grams Jojoba oil
- 450 grams distilled water
- 4 grams Germaben II-Never add ammonia, borax, baking soda
or other alkaline products to lotions containing Germaben II and the amount of
oil used shouldn’t be more than 25%.
- 8 grams of glycerin
- 8 grams of stearic acid
- 20 grams emulsifying wax NF
- A couple of drops of your preferred essential or fragrant
oil
Combine and heat all of the ingredients except the Germaben
II and the fragrance. Do this in stages using the microwave. Do not over heat the
lotion because the hotter it becomes, the longer it will take to emulsify. Heat
the mixture just enough so that the emulsifying wax melts. Allow the lotion to cool
while mixing occasionally with a hand blender. After the lotion has cooled add the
fragrance and the Germaben II. Do not add the Germaben II too early as it will lose
some of its effectiveness. This loss will be due to the heat.
Odor: Mild
Natural: Germaben
II is a synthetically made substance. It contains methylparaben, proplylparaben,
propylene glycol and diazolidinyl urea.
Shelf Life: Stable
Storage Directions:
Germaben II needs to be stored in a dry, cool location in an airtight container.
Cautions: May cause
slight to severe skin and eye irritation. Never add ammonia, borax, baking soda
or other alkaline products to lotions containing Germaben II and the amount of oil
used shouldn’t be more than 25%. Other considerations are the pH of the lotion which
must be 7.5 or lower, the lotion should be cooler than 140 F if possible but definitely
cooler than 175 F when the Germaben II is being added and the usage rate is .3%
to 1%.
==========================================================
================================================================
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Phenoxyethanol-SA-p134.html
Description: Blend of phenoxyethanol
(50.5-54.5%), caprylyl glycol (40-44%) & sorbic acid (5.0-7.5%), very effective
broad-spectrum preservative, compatible with most raw materials. Clear to light
yellow liquid. Soluble in water (1g/100g) & alcohol. CAS# 122-99-6, 110-44-1.
INCI Name:
Phenoxyethanol, sorbic acid, caprylyl glycol.
Properties: Offers effective broad spectrum
protection against gram-positive & gram-negative bacteria, yeast, & mold while imparting
emolliency to finished products.
Use: Recommended use level of 0.75-1.50%,
performs best in pH of 6.0, but also proven effective at pH levels above 6.0. Can
be added directly to the formulation during pre- or post-emulsification at or below
60°C.
Applications: All kinds of skin & hair
care products (incl. emulsions, aqueous and anhydrous systems), sun care products,
& makeup products.
According to a warning by the FDA of 2008 "Phenoxyethanol is a
preservative that is primarily used in cosmetics and medications. It also can
depress the central nervous system and may cause vomiting and diarrhea, which
can lead to dehydration in infants".[7]
======================================================
sorbic acid
is soluble in fats, oils and some
solvents but virtually insoluble in water.
In
the United States, sorbic acid is primarily used in a wide range of food and feed
products and to a lesser in certain cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and tobacco products.
Sorbic acid is used as a preservative at concentrations of up to 0.2%.
Potassium Sorbate-
Used to inhibit mold, yeast, fungi and some bacteria. One of those
"naturally occurring" or "naturally derived" chemicals. Potassium Sorbate is the
potassium salt of sorbic acid. You can order
either fairly easily. The difference to consider in lotion making is that sorbic
acid is soluble in fats, oils and some solvents but virtually insoluble in
water. Potassium sorbate is very soluble in water (58.2% at 20 °C) .
It is a personal choice. Used in MANY natural skin care products successfully.
Usage Rate: 0.1 - 0.5% for lotion. Do not exceed this. Works best when the pH is
5-6, 6 is a good pH for lotion. Use with citric acid to keep the pH low. Some
studies show that this mineral works better as a preservative in combination
with cinnamon. It has been used for over 100 years "in quantities at which there
are no known adverse health effects.
Potassium sorbate is considered to be safe because of its long term safety
record and non-toxic profile. Potassium sorbate is non-irritating and
non-sensitizing. Allergic reactions are rare." Source
Wikipedia. It is the only preservative that is
generally regarded as safe by the FDA. Please use caution when handling these
chemicals in their pure form. Do not inhale, get into eyes or get directly on
your skin when adding them to the mix. If you do- flush with cold water for
several minutes.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
| Concern |
Reference |
| Recommended restricted in cosmetics - use, concentration,
or manufacturing restrictions - |
Cosmetics Ingredient Review (CIR) |
| Determined safe for use in cosmetics, subject
to concentration or use limitations - Safe for use in cosmetics with some
qualifications |
Cosmetic Ingredient Review Assessments |
Allergies/immunotoxicity
| Concern |
Reference |
| Limited evidence of sensitization toxicity or
allergies |
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE:
Cocamidopropyl betaine is a synthetic surfactant; it has been associated with irritation
and allergic contact dermatitis, reactions that could be due to the ingredient itself
or to impurities present in it, such as 3-dimethylaminopropylamine.
Function(s): Antistatic Agent; Hair Conditioning
Agent; Skin-Conditioning Agent - Miscellaneous;Surfactant - Cleansing Agent; Surfactant
- Foam Booster; Viscosity Increasing Agent - Aqueous; FOAM BOOSTING; VISCOSITY CONTROLLING
Synoym(s): 1-PROPANAMINIUM, 3-AMINO-N- (CARBOXYMETHYL)
-N,N-DIMETHYL-, N-COCO ACYL DERIVS., INNER SALTS; 1-PROPANAMINIUM, N- (CARBOXYMETHYL)
-N,N-DIMETHYL-3- [ (1-OXOCOCONUT) AMINO] -, HYDROXIDE, INNER SALT; 1PROPANAMINIUM,
3AMINON (CARBOXYMETHYL) N,NDIMETHYL, NCOCO ACYL DERIVS., HYDROXIDES, INNER SALTS;
CADG; COCAMIDO BETAINE; COCAMIDOPROPYL DIMETHYL GLYCINE; COCOAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE;
COCOYL AMIDE PROPYLBETAINE; COCOYL AMIDE PROPYLDI METHYL GLYCINE SOLUTION; COCOYL
AMIDE PROPYLDIMETHYL GLYCINE; HYDROXIDE INNER SALT 1-PROPANAMINIUM, N- (CARBOXYMETHYL)
-N,N-DIMETHYL-3- [ (1-OXOCOCONUT) AMINO] -
================================================================
Stearic acid also acts as an emulsifying agent,
stearic acid, also called
Octadecanoic Acid, one of the most common long-chain
fatty acids, found in combined form in natural animal and vegetable fats. Commercial
“stearic acid” is a mixture of approximately equal amounts of stearic and palmitic
acids and small amounts of oleic acid. It is employed in the manufacture of candles,
cosmetics, shaving soaps, lubricants, and pharmaceuticals.
In nature stearic acid occurs primarily as a mixed triglyceride, or fat, with
other long-chain acids and as an ester of a fatty alcohol. It is much more abundant
in animal fat than in vegetable fat; lard and tallow often contain up to 30 percent
stearic acid.
Alkaline hydrolysis, or
saponification,
of fats yields
soaps,
which are the sodium or potassium salts of fatty acids; pure stearic acid is obtained
with difficulty from such a mixture by crystallization, vacuum distillation, or
chromatography of the acids or suitable derivatives. The pure acid undergoes chemical
reactions typical of carboxylic acids. It is a colourless, waxy solid that is almost
insoluble in water.
Isopropyl palmitate (IPP) is a thickening and
emollient agent. It is a chemical derived primarily from palm acid, but also to
a lesser extent, from coconut. Primarily used in the cosmetics industry in skin
products, IPP’s main function is to make the skin soft and shiny. The most
common use of IPP is in moisturizers. Its greasy feel forms a light layer on the
skin and seeps into it. Because of its viscosity, IPP is also a binding agent
for many
skincare products
,
and is also used on the scalp. Despite its widespread use, there are some
dangers associated with IPP.
-
eHow
-
Beauty & Personal Care
-
Skin Care
-
Soft Skin
-
What Are the Dangers of Isopropyl Palmitate?
Isopropyl palmitate
(IPP) is a thickening and emollient agent. It is a chemical derived primarily
from palm acid, but also to a lesser extent, from coconut. Primarily used in
the cosmetics industry in skin products, IPP’s main function is to make the
skin soft and shiny. The most common use of IPP is in moisturizers. Its greasy
feel forms a light layer on the skin and seeps into it. Because of its
viscosity, IPP is also a binding agent for many
skincare products
,
and is also used on the scalp. Despite its widespread use, there are some
dangers associated with IPP.
Does this Spark an idea?
-
-
Isopropyl palmitate can cause skin irritations. IPP use, especially
in products that also contain synthetic alcohol and isopropyl
alcohol, can cause a number of potential skin problems, including
acne and
dermatitis
.
-
Isopropyl palmitate can clog the pores, resulting in the appearance
of dermatological conditions such as whiteheads and blackheads. The
thickness of the chemicals in IPP can deprive the skin of nutrients
such as as oxygen. If the skin doesn't breathe, your pores can
become clogged, and healthy skin cells can die. This can also lead
to dry, flaky skin.
Ethylhexylglycerin
is a conditioning agent and preservative.
Why is it a risk?
Two studies have found it to be a skin irritant, even at low concentrations,
so people with sensitive skin may experience contact dermatitis. In addition,
it is an eye irritant in animal studies. Reactions are typically low, however.
(Source)
What Type of Products is it in?
Lotions, washes, shampoo, conditioner
=============================================
Phenoxyethanol
Journal Entry
by [Stephanie Greenwood]
on Mon, February 28, 2011
Today's Chemical: Phenoxyethanol EWG Risk Score: 4 What is it:
Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol. What does this mean? This
ingredient starts out as phenol, a toxic white crystalline powder that's
created from benzene (a known carcinogen) and then is treated with
ethylene ...
Journal Entry
by [Stephanie Greenwood]
on Fri, June 19, 2009
Today's Chemical: Phenoxyethanol EWG Risk Score: 4 What is it:
Phenoxyethanol is an aromatic ether alcohol. What does this mean? This
ingredient starts out as phenol, a toxic white crystalline powder that's
created from benzene (a known carcinogen) and then is treated with
ethylene oxide (als ...
Journal Entry
by [Stephanie Greenwood]
on Mon, November 9, 2009
Recently one of our Chemical of the Day articles was featured in Utah
Stories Magazine as a "Chemical of the Month" feature. After a local
chemist read the article, he challenged Stephanie's stance on
phenoxyethanol and wrote in to the magazine. I have just yesterday become
acquainted with Utah ...
Journal Entry Follow-Up
by [Stephanie Greenwood]
on Mon, November 16, 2009
On November 12, "Violet" wrote: Once again, another person who doesn't
understand a thing about chemistry scaring the public. Phenoxyethanol is
NOT a known carcinogen, regardless of what its precursors are. (And your
response, Stephanie, on Utah Stories just made you look all the more
ignorant, s ...
Journal Entry Comment
by Robyn
on Wed, August 26, 2009
Phenoxyethanol is also in vaccines. Injecting known carcinogens into
children. Great.
================================================
- T-50 Mixed Tocopherol Oil- Naturally mixed tocopherols, isolated from
vegetable oils. It is a heat stable and powerful antioxidant. It can
be used at a rate of 0.04- 0.5%. Protects oils from rancidity, or separating
and turning yellow- or even smelling like mayonnaise. Although T-50 is not an
organic product, it is allowed for use in "organic" or "made with organic
material" products. I use this one only when I can't use rosemary.
You can usually purchase
Vitamin E T-50 from an organic supplier online like
~From Nature With Love~.
========================================================
- Rating:
-
Good
- Categories:
-
Preservatives ,
Plant Extracts
Skin-conditioning agent that may be plant-derived or synthetic. Often used as
part of a preservative blend with phenoxyethanol and chloroxylenol, two
preservatives that meet current global regulations.